Tuesday, November 27, 2007

GOODBYE PARIS, WITH JAZZ

FOR THE TIME BEING... - FEBRUARY 2006

From Parc Monceau to Grand Cafe des Capucines - 10:30 a.m. through 2:30 a.m.!




"PARC MONCEAU is one of the most attractive parks in Paris, and it became a favourite resting place for those looking to get away from the city bustle. It was started by the Duke of Chartres (later Duke of Orleans), who purchased some land in 1769 to build a garden. The Duke hired Louis Carmontelle to design the gardens in an English style. Carmontelle added sculpture of famous Frenchmen as well as a windmill, a pyramid, and some Corinthian pillars to the already existing pavilion that had been built in the centre. When the Duke was executed in 1793, the garden reverted to public ownership. It was sold to the city of Paris in 1860 and opened in 1861 by Napoleon III"


"CERNUSCHI MUSEUM - Few of the people who visit the Parc Monceau realize that a stylish white stone mansion at the edge of the park, built in the 1870s, houses one of the most remarkable collections of ancient Chinese art in Europe. The Cernuschi Museum was left to the City of Paris one hundred years ago by Henri Cernuschi (1820-1896), a Milanese financier and sympathizer with the 1871 Commune insurgents. When we visited, further to the permanent collection, there was an interesting exhibition of Chinese erotic paintings (The Spring Palace Paintings)"


"TAVERNE KRONENBOURG - A nice place for a late lunch or late dinner break"





“THE PYRAMIDS at the Louvre courtyard are probably the pièce de résistance of I.M.Pei's legacy to modernism. Of all President Mitterrand’s Grands Projets in Paris, none was as controversial as the Pei Pyramids. The main Pyramid, which unquestionably disturbs the balance of the old Cour Napoleon, provides an entrance to the galleries of the Museum. Time has somehow rounded criticism, though its role as a protected entrance against the elements is rather unsuccessful"


"COUR CARRÉE - Built shortly after 1190 by King Philippe Auguste as a defensive fortress, by the 14th century the Louvre had become a residence occasionally serving as a royal home. François I turned it into a Renaissance palace and Louis XIV, who resided there until his departure for Versailles in 1678, completed the Cour Carrée (Square Court). In 1793, the Louvre became a museum"


"LA SAMARITAINE seen from the pedestrian bridge over the Seine. Founded in 1870, it was one of the first «Grands Magazins» in Haussmann’s Paris. Acquired by LVMH (Louis Vuitton group) in 2001 is now closed for long term works, they say. It used to have one of the best Paris views from its terrace"


"PONT NEUF also seen from the pedestrian bridge over the Seine, near the Louvre"


"CAFE LAURENT at the D’Aubusson Hotel (a city mansion from de 17th Century located in the historical centre of Paris, at walking distance from the Louvre museum) is one of the Jazz sites in Paris. Thursday, Friday and Saturday it’s show time"


"STREET PIANIST - My Parisian friends surely have met this piano player several times near the Abbey at St. Germain des Prés"



"CAVEAU DE LA HUCHETTE – The famous jazz cellar has an interesting story. Before 1551 the building at nr.5 Huchette Street served as a meeting point for the members of the «Brethren of Rose Cross» and of the «Order of the Temple». In 1773 it became a lodge for the Freemasonry. With secret tunnels departing from there, the building hosted the Clubs of the Montagnards during the Revolution, when it was known as «The Terror Cave». It seems that Danton, Saint-Just, Marat and Robespierre were frequent visitors to the Tavern that was then located in the upper floor. It also seems that a court, a prison and an execution hall functioned in the building. At the end of WWII, swing and bebop invaded Paris, and «Le Caveau de la Huchette» became the first jazz club in Paris. Sydney Bechet, Lionel Hampton, Art Blakey and the Messengers and many others played there. Nowadays it’s still a nice spot to spend an evening"


"THE GRAND CAFE DES CAPUCINES - And when you leave the Caveau, there is always a nice place to have a supper. The Grand Café was already «in» when it opened in 1875. It has everything to be an exciting spot: an «Art Déco» décor, large hotels, luxury boutiques and the Opera around the corner, as well as a round the clock appealing cuisine. Oysters, Lobster, Smoked Salmon, Scallops or Duck with olives are a delight to your taste"

38 comments:

JennDZ - The Leftover Queen said...

Wonderful photos!
Thanks for sharing with us your trip to Paris! Once trip I would love to make at some point!

Susanne in Key West said...

It was so great to travel Paris again in your pictures, Gil. A lot of memories came back to me...:-)

Thanks for sharing your great photos and words with us. Looking forward to the next travel trip report!

Chris said...

Oh, I just love the shots of the pyramid at the Lourve! It is such a wonderful structure, isn't it?

I didn't see the street pianist when we were in Paris. Interesting!!

Out of curiosity, have you been to the States?

Azer Mantessa said...

some nice trip pictures you have here ... thanks for sharing :-)

Dalicia said...

some of my great memories of france! :) don't know when i'll be going back there

Peter said...

A wonderful report by someone who really knows and obviously loves Paris! Bravo for having found the Cernuschi Museum, clearly worth a visit, but very "discrete".

Ash said...

Fantastic images. I really enjoyed your Paris series!

leo said...

oohh i love your night shots of the pyramid, brilliantly captured!!

Moi said...

Thanks for the beautiful trip to a beautiful city :)

Olivier said...

Voila une journée bien remplie. j'aime beaucoup les photos de fin de soirée, les soirées jazzy.

Here is a busy day. I love the photos of late evening, jazzy evenings.

traveller one said...

Ahhhh Paris.... it's time for another trip!

Noushy Syah said...

Yeap, should be there more often, especially with the latest Eurostar...simple writing but explains a lot! Thanks for sharing.

lyliane said...

Encore une belle promenade et une journée bien remplie dans Paris. Quand y revenez vous? Lisbonne est un peu loin de la Normandie, mais l'avion ne vous fait pas peur!!donc j'essaie de réunir les amis, le 15 décembre à la maison, serez vous de la partie? A bientôt peut être.

Kalyan said...

WoW...a beautifully captured & composed shot with lovely lighting & the colours...It was lovely viewing Paris through your eyes & reading the lovely descriptions!

Raghu Ram Prasad said...

Really wonderful photographs..... i came back to see you...i am out of station for a short period...sorry

Pijush said...

Wonderful shots Gil, your pic also came nice and I enjoyed all of your Paris posts.

backpakker said...

The pyramids are so beautiful ..Sorry am a bit late..I am going to read the other travelogues on Paris

Lara said...

this trip to Paris - again, for me just virtual - was a real delight. thanks for sharing!

Leena said...

Greetings from snowy Finland! And thanks again for enjoyable Paris trip!

Annie said...

I would want to see all the sights and hear all the music before heading to the Grand Cafe des Capucines - that would certainly crown the evening with perfection. What loveliness is there.

freefalling said...

The ceiling in the Grand Cafe looks absolutely exquisite!
I love the street pianist - how does he get his piano home when it is time to pack up - strap it onto his back, I guess!
The park looks magnificent - and so it should belong to the people - one person alone can not appreciate so much beauty!

Marie said...

Nice to read about a city I hardly know. Quelle lacune !

Lori said...

Your photos are so great and you always introduce us to something new. I definitely must visit the Cernuschi Museum when I am in Paris next. I think you should start writing travel books!

Isadora said...

:) Thank you for a wonderful and colorful tour of the city of lights!

JoAnn - NL "My digital eyes" :) said...

WOW Gil,
Thanks for you compliments! and 4 telling me that you also posted PARIS photo's , well I must say that yu photo's are different from mine, but I like yours also very very much! Thanks for showing me this great shots, yo are better in history than me, so we are both 'better'in something right?

I Just want to let you know that: I POSTED TODAY (FRIDAY) again 3 more HUGH works of the LOUVRE on my blog, a slide- show with 34 photo's and 8 collages, also a close-up of the MONA LISA, so please watch it :)

Have a great weekend! :)

JoAnn:)

Nikon said...

Great series Gil, but it does look chilly there. You always seem to find some nice cozy hole in the wall to have a something to warm you up :)
I hope Decemeber in Paris, I'm waiting on the muse :)

Nihal said...

Oh my God! Incredible Paris reporting... not too much say but very very impressive, and your write ups together w/so professional shots enough to make me dreaming again on Paris, O la la laaa...St Germain de Pres, Seine, Cour Carree.. all I missed at a certain point! Paris decorated beautifully for comming close Noel, did you know? For more, follow my journal, very soon *surprise*
And you too have a great restful weekend, Gil.

Trotter said...

Jenndz,
Sue,
Azer,
Dalicia,
Ash,
Leo,
Moi,
Kalyan,
Pijush,
Lara,
Leena,
Isadora,
Thanks for your visits and comments. They’re all truly appreciated!
Paris seems to be in every people’s mind: to go for a first time or to return… And it would be a perfect spot for a bloggers’ meeting!

Chris,
The pianist is usually in St. Germain across the street from “Les Deux Magots”.
About the US, you may find some posts under the label United States; but if you’re actually interested, please try the same label for the Revival blogs (in particular the 70s & 80s, but also the 90s). There you may get to see some surprising spots in the US!

Peter,
Thanks. The Cernuschi, like we say, is the sherry on the top of the cake!

Olivier,
Avec l’adoration que tu as pour NYC, j’étais sûr que le jazz te serait sympa…

Kim,
Yeah! We’ll meet there…

Noushy Syah,
True; with the new Eurostar, it’s just around the corner…

Lyliane,
Merci. J’avais la chance de passer à Paris le 12 décembre en route vers Tunis (s’il n’y a pas de grève à l’aéroport...). Mais maintenant il y a une urgence, dont le délai termine le 24 décembre, et je ne sais même pas si je réussirais à aller en Tunisie… On verra!

Raghu,
Great to see you back here and hope to see you blogging again soon!

Backpakker,
Don’t worry about being late; those posts are there to stay… ;))

Annie,
You’re absolutely right: the Grand Café is a perfect ending for a musical night; and it’s open round the clock…

Letitia (Freefalling)
I think he may chain the piano to the rail barriers of the St. Germain Abbey… ;)

Marie,
Ce n’est pas possible! Montpellier n’est pas si loin… ;))

Lori,
Cernuschi is a good choice! As far as books are concerned, I need to retire first… ;))

Joann,
Loved your Paris photos too. I’m hesitating on introducing the slide shows here. I’m not sure I like to see a post I can’t control the viewing…

Nikon,
It was a bit freezing, but you never feel the chill in Paris…
Look forward to seeing the muse’s attack!

Nihal,
Thanks. To close like I started: Paris is in everyone’s mind!

niki yokota said...

that is a very nice pic of bridge!!

Trotter said...

Hi Niki-chan,
Glad to see you back here!
Pont Neuf, a brige to connect people, that's what it is...
Have a great week!

Sigma said...

Wonderful picures, as always :-)
The cafe sure looks grand.

Trotter said...

Sigma,
Thanks for your continuous support (visits and comments), and for always catching up old posts!

Catherine said...

Pleasant trip into Paris. As a parisian I couldn't ignore your travel in my city.
You even tought me something about the 'Caveau de la Huchette'. I ignored the previous utilization from middle ages to the revolution!
Concerning the pyramid, that's true that, actually, there are water infiltrations from outside. I've even seen one year ago firemen pumping water out inside, at the place of the reversed pyramid!

Trotter said...

Catherine,
Paris is definitely the capital where I've spent more time outside Lisbon; no wonder I love it!
«Le Caveau» has an amazing story!
Water infiltrations? Shame... :-(

Ron said...

Oh my, such wonderful pictures. You did an awesome shoot with the pyramid. I like you picture of the building looking thru the glass in the pyramid.

Also, your Notre Dame at night is wonderful. I have yet to visit Paris, but we are planning it for 2011. I enjoy seeing the world thru your lens.

Trotter said...

Ron,
I like planning, but 2011 may be a bit too far for my range.... ;)
You're right: Paris deserves a nice planning!

John said...

Hi Gil,

It was good to hear from you. Great pictures of Paris! I love Jazz! I just posted a few pictures of our trip to Paris.

http://johnfultz.blogspot.com/2009/10/paris-france.html

I will try to post more soon.

Best regards,

John

Trotter said...

Hi John,
Great to see you back here!! I'll check your Paris pictures!!
Take dare!!